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Via Ferrata Lipella – Tofana di Rozes

Difficulty

For experts

Time

8 h

Start

Rifugio Dibona

Finish

Rifugio Dibona

Info

Altitude:

3225 m

Elevation gain:

1400 m

Negative height difference:

1400 m

Description

The Via Ferrata Lipella is a route for expert hikers – unmissable for any enthusiast.

Visit the locations of the Great War and reach the top of one of the most famous peaks of all the Dolomites: the Tofana di Rozes. The view from the summit, at 3,255 m, is magnificent: you’ll be able to admire the Conca Ampezzana and the entire Dolomite arch from above.

From Cortina take the SS48 road towards the Passo Falzarego, go past La Locanda del Cantoniere restaurant and the small Vervei church and continue for about 500 metres to the Fedarola crossroads, then go up the road that leads to the Rifugio Dibona. The second part of the road is a dirt track but in good condition. From the mountain hut, featuring a large parking lot, take path 403 until the intersection with path 404, which will take you along the base of the Tofana di Rozes, until you reach the start of the via ferrata at the Gallerie del Castelletto.

The route begins with a long iron staircase that leads inside the tunnel built entirely by the Alpine troops during the First World War. The walkway has a difference in height of 120 m and a length of 500 m, and requires the use of a torch or headlamp. This is the mine gallery, where on 11 July 1916, the Italian mine exploded to take Castelletto.

Once you reach the fork, stay on the right at the exit of the tunnel, in order to go down the path to get back to the Via Ferrata Lipella.

The route requires good training as it progresses between steep steps and ledges, with some vertical passages. Continue until you reach a crossroads, and from here continue right to reach the top of Tofana di Rozes or left to reach the characteristic “Tre Dita”, an iconic rock formation. Then continue towards the Rifugio Giussani which you’ll reach in about 30 minutes.

Take the road on the right towards the summit, continue along the ledge until you find the metal cables of the via ferrata that will take you to the end of the pre-summit at 3,027 m in about two hours. This last stretch is challenging and requires good training, given the presence of vertical sections. From the end of the via ferrata you’ll reach the summit of Tofana di Rozes, at 3,225 m, via the normal route, in about 30 minutes. Once you arrive you’ll find a majestic summit cross and you’ll be able to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire Valle d’Ampezzo.

For the descent, retrace the path taken on the way up to the ante-summit. From there, take the normal route towards the Rifugio Giussani, at 2,580 m, which you’ll reach in about an hour. From the mountain hut continue for another 45 minutes along path 403 to the Rifugio Dibona.

Support points

Rifugio Dibona, Rifugio Giussani

Notes

Given the route’s altitude, you may find snow and ice even during the summer months. It’s therefore important to be very careful.

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Cortina Marketing is the Official Tourism Board for promotion, communication and territorial marketing of the Queen of the Dolomites. It is part of the Società Servizi Ampezzo Unipersonale Srl, a subsidiary of the Municipality of Cortina d’Ampezzo.

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