Lago di Pianozes and Bar-pizzeria Camping Cortina (Campo), Chalet Tofane (Volpèra and Sasso)
The area of Volpèra and Campo is varied, characterised by a series of overhanging boulders scattered throughout the thick woods. The highest part is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, the middle part is the Grotte di Volpèra and the lowest part is the Campo area. The crags, consisting of boulders between 15 and 20 metres high, require an athletic climbing style, great strength and a fair amount of technique. The Campo Sector is located in the lowest part of the forest and is one of the places that first hosted sport climbing in the Ampezzo basin. The Campo crag contains some historical and local landmark routes, such as “Master Lippa” (7a), “Il Grande Sogno” (7b+) and “Welcome to the Jungle” (8b+). In 2009, a variant of “Welcome to the Jungle” was also freed by Luca Zardini Canon, namely “Welcome to the Club”, a 16-metre 9a route on beautiful, compact rock, the most difficult route freed in the Conca. The crag also hosts some easy routes suitable for beginners, starting from 4c. The central sector is the Grotte di Volpèra, characterised by predominantly vertical and technical climbing. Volpèra also has historical routes such as “Rotkreis? No grazie” (7c) and “Figli di un dio minore” (7c). In Volpèra, there are also easy routes from grades 4 and 5 upwards, making the sector suitable for everyone. The highest sector is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, so called because at the end of the 1980s some members of the Soccorso Alpino and Guardia di Finanza began to nail this very overhanging rock. The climbing style is in fact very athletic, requires strength and technique, and is of medium-high level. Among the best known routes are “Er Mulo” (6c+) and “K.O.” (7a+), routes that require good preparation and strength despite the fact that the grade is not very high, and some of the most difficult sport climbing routes in Cortina, such as “Deserto Violato” (8c) and “La Grande Onda” (8c+).
Approach: the Volpera Caves and the Sasso dei Finanzieri can be accessed from both above and below. To access it from below, from Cortina go up to Mortisa and cross the entire village until you find a small car park (at the end of the road). Continue on foot along path 428 to the junction with a path climbing to the right towards Volpèra-Pocol and take it (429). Continue to a fork, keep to the right and climb up a steep section, then turn left where the first boulders of the Volpèra crag can be seen. For the Sasso dei Finanzieri, instead of turning left, go straight on until the path flattens out. Here, take a path to the right until you meet the boulders. To access from above, from Cortina take the SS48 towards the Passo Falzarego, pass the village of Col and at km 119, just before the tunnel carved into the rock, park on the left behind a large boulder. From here, take path 429 and descend the first steep section until you reach a flat section. From here, for the Sasso dei Finanzieri, follow the path to the left to the base of the boulder. For Volpèra, continue for another few hundred metres, then follow the tracks to the right in the direction of the boulders. Given the number of paths in the forest, it is advisable to consult the guidebook “Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo” and use GPS coordinates. For the Campo crag, take the road in the direction of Zuel until you reach Campo di Sotto, go past the campsites and continue straight on until you come to an old power station just before the road to Lago di Pianozes. From here, follow a dirt road to the right to the edge of the forest. From here, do not take path 151 - instead, follow a track to the right along the meadow until you enter the bushes. Continuing to follow the path, you will reach the crag in a few minutes' ascent.
Lago di Pianozes and Bar-pizzeria Camping Cortina (Campo), Chalet Tofane (Volpèra and Sasso)
The area of Volpèra and Campo is varied, characterised by a series of overhanging boulders scattered throughout the thick woods. The highest part is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, the middle part is the Grotte di Volpèra and the lowest part is the Campo area. The crags, consisting of boulders between 15 and 20 metres high, require an athletic climbing style, great strength and a fair amount of technique. The Campo Sector is located in the lowest part of the forest and is one of the places that first hosted sport climbing in the Ampezzo basin. The Campo crag contains some historical and local landmark routes, such as “Master Lippa” (7a), “Il Grande Sogno” (7b+) and “Welcome to the Jungle” (8b+). In 2009, a variant of “Welcome to the Jungle” was also freed by Luca Zardini Canon, namely “Welcome to the Club”, a 16-metre 9a route on beautiful, compact rock, the most difficult route freed in the Conca. The crag also hosts some easy routes suitable for beginners, starting from 4c. The central sector is the Grotte di Volpèra, characterised by predominantly vertical and technical climbing. Volpèra also has historical routes such as “Rotkreis? No grazie” (7c) and “Figli di un dio minore” (7c). In Volpèra, there are also easy routes from grades 4 and 5 upwards, making the sector suitable for everyone. The highest sector is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, so called because at the end of the 1980s some members of the Soccorso Alpino and Guardia di Finanza began to nail this very overhanging rock. The climbing style is in fact very athletic, requires strength and technique, and is of medium-high level. Among the best known routes are “Er Mulo” (6c+) and “K.O.” (7a+), routes that require good preparation and strength despite the fact that the grade is not very high, and some of the most difficult sport climbing routes in Cortina, such as “Deserto Violato” (8c) and “La Grande Onda” (8c+).
Approach: the Volpera Caves and the Sasso dei Finanzieri can be accessed from both above and below. To access it from below, from Cortina go up to Mortisa and cross the entire village until you find a small car park (at the end of the road). Continue on foot along path 428 to the junction with a path climbing to the right towards Volpèra-Pocol and take it (429). Continue to a fork, keep to the right and climb up a steep section, then turn left where the first boulders of the Volpèra crag can be seen. For the Sasso dei Finanzieri, instead of turning left, go straight on until the path flattens out. Here, take a path to the right until you meet the boulders. To access from above, from Cortina take the SS48 towards the Passo Falzarego, pass the village of Col and at km 119, just before the tunnel carved into the rock, park on the left behind a large boulder. From here, take path 429 and descend the first steep section until you reach a flat section. From here, for the Sasso dei Finanzieri, follow the path to the left to the base of the boulder. For Volpèra, continue for another few hundred metres, then follow the tracks to the right in the direction of the boulders. Given the number of paths in the forest, it is advisable to consult the guidebook “Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo” and use GPS coordinates. For the Campo crag, take the road in the direction of Zuel until you reach Campo di Sotto, go past the campsites and continue straight on until you come to an old power station just before the road to Lago di Pianozes. From here, follow a dirt road to the right to the edge of the forest. From here, do not take path 151 - instead, follow a track to the right along the meadow until you enter the bushes. Continuing to follow the path, you will reach the crag in a few minutes' ascent.
Lago di Pianozes and Bar-pizzeria Camping Cortina (Campo), Chalet Tofane (Volpèra and Sasso)
The area of Volpèra and Campo is varied, characterised by a series of overhanging boulders scattered throughout the thick woods. The highest part is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, the middle part is the Grotte di Volpèra and the lowest part is the Campo area. The crags, consisting of boulders between 15 and 20 metres high, require an athletic climbing style, great strength and a fair amount of technique. The Campo Sector is located in the lowest part of the forest and is one of the places that first hosted sport climbing in the Ampezzo basin. The Campo crag contains some historical and local landmark routes, such as “Master Lippa” (7a), “Il Grande Sogno” (7b+) and “Welcome to the Jungle” (8b+). In 2009, a variant of “Welcome to the Jungle” was also freed by Luca Zardini Canon, namely “Welcome to the Club”, a 16-metre 9a route on beautiful, compact rock, the most difficult route freed in the Conca. The crag also hosts some easy routes suitable for beginners, starting from 4c. The central sector is the Grotte di Volpèra, characterised by predominantly vertical and technical climbing. Volpèra also has historical routes such as “Rotkreis? No grazie” (7c) and “Figli di un dio minore” (7c). In Volpèra, there are also easy routes from grades 4 and 5 upwards, making the sector suitable for everyone. The highest sector is the Sasso dei Finanzieri, so called because at the end of the 1980s some members of the Soccorso Alpino and Guardia di Finanza began to nail this very overhanging rock. The climbing style is in fact very athletic, requires strength and technique, and is of medium-high level. Among the best known routes are “Er Mulo” (6c+) and “K.O.” (7a+), routes that require good preparation and strength despite the fact that the grade is not very high, and some of the most difficult sport climbing routes in Cortina, such as “Deserto Violato” (8c) and “La Grande Onda” (8c+).
Approach: the Volpera Caves and the Sasso dei Finanzieri can be accessed from both above and below. To access it from below, from Cortina go up to Mortisa and cross the entire village until you find a small car park (at the end of the road). Continue on foot along path 428 to the junction with a path climbing to the right towards Volpèra-Pocol and take it (429). Continue to a fork, keep to the right and climb up a steep section, then turn left where the first boulders of the Volpèra crag can be seen. For the Sasso dei Finanzieri, instead of turning left, go straight on until the path flattens out. Here, take a path to the right until you meet the boulders. To access from above, from Cortina take the SS48 towards the Passo Falzarego, pass the village of Col and at km 119, just before the tunnel carved into the rock, park on the left behind a large boulder. From here, take path 429 and descend the first steep section until you reach a flat section. From here, for the Sasso dei Finanzieri, follow the path to the left to the base of the boulder. For Volpèra, continue for another few hundred metres, then follow the tracks to the right in the direction of the boulders. Given the number of paths in the forest, it is advisable to consult the guidebook “Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo” and use GPS coordinates. For the Campo crag, take the road in the direction of Zuel until you reach Campo di Sotto, go past the campsites and continue straight on until you come to an old power station just before the road to Lago di Pianozes. From here, follow a dirt road to the right to the edge of the forest. From here, do not take path 151 - instead, follow a track to the right along the meadow until you enter the bushes. Continuing to follow the path, you will reach the crag in a few minutes' ascent.
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