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Via ferrata Marino Bianchi

Difficulty

For experts

Time

5 h

Start

Rifugio Son Forca

Finish

Rifugio Son Forca

Info

Altitude:

3154 m

Elevation gain:

1000 m

Negative height difference:

1000 m

Description

Via ferrata for expert hikers that will take you to the top of Cristallo di Mezzo, where the characteristic cairn will confirm that you have conquered one of the most prestigious peaks of Cortina above 3,000 metres. The view at the top is that of the Conca Ampezzana on one side and the magnificent Valle di Landro on the other.

The route progresses on the Cristallo, east of the Valle d’Ampezzo. To reach the start of the via ferrata from Cortina, head towards Passo Tre Croci up to Rio Gere. There you’ll find a large parking lot where you can leave your car. Take the chairlift from Rio Gere to Son Forca, where you’ll find the mountain hut of the same name with incredible views. From Son Forca take the steep path up the long, steep scree to Forcella Staunies: this journey along the gravel channel lasts about two hours, is challenging and features a drop of 900 meters. Once you reach the fork, behind the famous Rifugio Lorenzi (closed), you’ll find the first fixed ropes and the start of the route.

To reach the top of Cristallo di Mezzo you’ll have a via ferrata in front of you at high altitude and often on the ridge. Given the altitude of the route, be mindful of the snow and ice that you may find along the way. The route begins with passages along the ridge with some uphill and then downhill sections to reach the fork between Cima Nord and Cima Centrale. Continue up the climb where you’ll find some ladders that will help you overcome some vertical walls. Here you’ll encounter the most difficult passage of the via ferrata: a smooth overhanging cracked gully.

Once past this difficult stretch, there is the last part of the route which progresses along the ridge leading to the summit and the traditional cairn of the Cristallo di Mezzo peak at 3,154 m. The view that unfolds before you will make the effort worthwhile. For the descent, retrace the same path as the outward journey.

Support points

Rifugio Son Forca

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